NEWS ANALYSIS, APRIL 20, 2002

 

RUINING HISTORIC SITES

 

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On April 1, 2002, the state-controlled Tien Phong newspaper published an article “Restore the original scenery of the Mot Cot Pagoda” (the temple built on a single pillar) the unique architecture work built in the Eleventh Century. Its official name is Dien Huu Pagoda.

 

Dien Huu Pagoda is one of the most important historic sites of Vietnam, built under the reign of King Ly Thai To (1010-1028), the first emperor of the Ly Dynasty. The pagoda bears the form of a lotus flower, the symbol of Buddhism.

 

In his childhood, King Ly Thai To was living in a pagoda and brought up by a Buddhist monk. When he was on the throne, he supported the practice of Buddhist faith, promoting the preaching of the religion and building many large pagodas. Dien Huu Pagoda is not a big one but the most beautiful works constructed by his directives.

 

In an open letter, which was also released to the overseas Vietnamese, retired North Vietnamese Army Colonel Pham Que Duong who converted to an anti-Communist dissident, provided his account on how the pagoda had escaped a total destruction. The letter proves that the Communist government is not paying due concerns to an important historic site and respects to the Buddhist Church.

 

Col. Duong’s letter raised a question concerning Hanoi Ministry of Culture and Information’s responsibility of protecting national historic sites. Col. Duong insists that the pagoda is a very special site with very special value that was proclaimed by Hanoi government in 1962.

 

But in 1985, the Communist government decided to demolish the pagoda to have land for the construction of the Ho Chi Minh Museum. Duong argues that if there had been no resolute protest by public opinion, by historians and journalists, would Dien Huu Pagoda still exists today? In fact, it was due to such fierce and insistent protest that the Party leaders had to concede.

 

Col. Duong also reveals in his letter that though the pagoda itself remains, the other supporting buildings 

have been destroyed since. Those included the resident monks’ quarters and the ancestral service house (to worship the late monks who were residing at the pagoda since the 11th Century. Therefore, all altars have to be stuffed in a narrow room while the monks have to spend the nights beside altars in sleeping space no larger than two yards square.

 

Because of the need of living and worshiping space, the monks had to renovate the compound. The Ministry of Culture and Information sent an official letter #140 on March 15, 2002 requesting the restoration of the original scenes of the pagoda. Col. Duong asks which side has to restore the scene, the authorities or the monks? The Tien Phong’s article endorses the ministry’s opinion, which classifies the pagoda as an actual ordinary construction.

 

Duong’s letter affirms that it is the HCM Museum, located close beside the pagoda that is devastating the most beautiful historic scene of the country. Supplementary surrounding constructions of the museum hinder the view of the pagoda. Visitors and worshippers have to walk around the museum back side to reach the pagoda whenever Ho’s museum is open to public.

 

Last month Col Duong visited the pagoda but he was in trouble with the soldiers guarding the museum who didn’t let him into the pagoda without paying fees for his bicycle. Ironically, Col. Duong, was also a Ho’s army field grade officer, once an editor-in-chief of the North Vietnamese Military History Magazine, was harassed while entering the pagoda.

 

Col. Duong suggests that Hanoi authorities hold a press conference to clarify the issue to an audience that includes historians and journalists in Vietnam and from foreign countries. He wonders who has permitted the inclusion of the Dien Huu Pagoda in the museum estate. To most Vietnamese, nothing of any kind, any greatness or any importance could be set atop the sacred pagoda of a thousand years in history.

 

It’s incredible that the Communist leaders in Hanoi have taken the 1985 decision to dismantle the so valuable symbol of the ancient Vietnamese civilization for the building of the museum, however much they may have idolized Ho.

 

People could only blame the Communist leaders’ idiocy for such stupid actions. Some other facts may consolidate the claim.

 

Later last week, the Tuoi Tre Chu Nhat (Youth Sunday edition) had a report on the UNESCO conference in Hanoi. According to the report, UNESCO representative and expert on archaeology from Australia, Mr. William Logan strongly criticized Hanoi government and its responsible branches for having neglected the maintenance of cultural heritage, and failing to establish priorities to preserve important sites.

 

He also taught Hanoi officials in charge of cultural works a primary lesson of determining the heritage -ethical, cultural, physical and social – and how to preserve them.

 

Farther to the North, Chua Thay (pagoda) is one of the most well known places built under King Ly Nhan Ton (1072-1127 AD) at Sai Son, Quoc Oai  District, Son Tay Province (20 km from Hanoi). The famous monk of Ly Dynasty, a founding father of the Buddhist Church in Vietnam, the Most Venerable Tu Dao Hanh, was living a long time at this pagoda. It is one of the most attractive tourist sites in Vietnam.

 

In front of the pagoda there are many tall cotton trees of many hundred years old. In early Summer (March and April), their brightly red flowers give the site a beautiful color that composes harmonious scenery, possibly unique in Vietnam. But in the last three or four years, 8 of the 30 cotton trees have been gradually dehydrated and died. Some say because of the polluted water source, other people say it is the dust and toxic smog from the nearby cement factory that destroyed many old trees in the area. Probable causes may include acid rain.

 

But one thing is certain: the Communist leaders have not lent their hands to the local authorities in any effort to save the cotton trees.

 

Other similar incidents prove the Communist leaders’ incapability and their ignorance of cultural values.

 

In the late 1980s, local government at Hue was given millions of dollars by UNESCO to restore damaged spots on historic constructions in the Imperial Palace. Local authorities had many of the buildings finished with new layers of paint of vivid colors. Many old palaces looked as if they were built only a few months before. The local authorities only stopped their foolish deeds when UNESCO warned that it would cancel the cash assistance if they continued to do so.

 

Similarly, Hanoi City authorities once decided to re-plaster the Thap Rua (Turtle Monument) in the Hoan Kiem Lake (Returned Sword) and whitewash it. The monument, the most prominent historic site well known to the world, was built by King Le Thai To (1428-1433) to memorize the Sacred Turtle who had given him the magic sword to help him win the Chinese aggressors.

 

Somewhere in Hung Yen province, there was a big square rock with smooth surface that looked like a tabletop resting on a scenic hill. Local people named it “The Chessboard of the Immortals.”  Some years ago, local authorities used dynamite to blow it up into gravels for making concrete for some construction and replaced the beautiful huge square rock with the fake one made from cheaper materials.

 

Under the Communist regime, there have been thousands of similar stories. Many historic temples, pagodas were damaged by squatters and stolen of valuable antique statues by robbers. The others are being ruined by lack of care by the government. People are unable to find an answer to the question  “What the Vietnamese cultural heritage will be like in the next twenty years if the current regime still exists?”

 

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